Card grading basics
Four criteria, a 1–10 scale, and a plastic slab: what graders actually look at, in plain language.
What grading is
Grading services authenticate a card and score its physical condition on a 1–10 scale, then seal it in a tamper-evident plastic slab with the grade on a label. A high grade can multiply a card's value because it makes condition — normally a subjective argument — into a certified fact.
The four things graders check
Every major service scores roughly the same four criteria:
- Centering — is the printed image evenly positioned between the borders? (The flaw you can see from across the room once you start looking)
- Corners — sharpness under magnification; the first thing shuffle wear destroys
- Edges — chipping and whitening along the cut lines
- Surface — scratches, print lines, dents, gloss integrity
Reading the scale
A 10 ('gem mint') means effectively flawless under magnification — most cards come out of the pack already unable to score it, thanks to factory centering and cut quality. 9 is mint with one tiny flaw; 8 looks perfect to the naked eye; 7 and below show honest wear. The gap in value between a 9 and a 10 on the same card is often larger than between a 5 and a 9 — scarcity of perfection is the whole game.
What this means for custom cards
Nobody slabs a custom card for value — but the condition mindset transfers. If you've printed a card that matters (a gift, a keepsake, the chase card of your set), sleeve it immediately, handle it by the edges, and store it flat and dry. And Card Forge's minted instances carry their own version of provenance: each copy's serial number and history live in the collection ledger, which is the part of grading — authenticated identity — that digital does better than plastic.